Oil Heat USA

Tank parts

The three parts that actually fail — caps and gauges. Shipped to your door for less than a service call.

📏 Measure before you order.

Caps and vents are sized parts, so we can’t take them back if you order the wrong one — every listing below tells you how to check. If you’re not sure, a photo of the pipe sent to us beats a guess.

Never guess again

A float gauge sticks. A monitor doesn’t — it reads the tank every hour, shows you on your phone, and lets us schedule your next delivery before you get low.

  • Wi-Fi tank monitor

    Reads your tank every hour and sends it to your phone. We can watch it too, and come before you get low.

    $199.00

    How to tell: You need a spare 2" port on top of the tank — most have one under a plug — and Wi-Fi that reaches the basement. If your only free port is the gauge, tell us and we’ll fit it during a service visit.

Fill caps

The cap the driver unscrews to fill your tank. A missing one lets water and dirt straight into your oil.

  • Scully fill cap — 2" threaded

    The standard locking-style fill cap on most residential fill pipes.

    $18.00

    How to tell: Unscrew the cap you have and measure across the threads. About 2 3/8" outside is a 2" pipe.

    Sized part — not returnable once shipped.

  • Bar-handle fill cap — 2" threaded

    Cast bar handle. Easier to break loose when the old one is seized.

    $22.00

    How to tell: Same 2" thread as the Scully — pick this one if yours turns hard.

    Sized part — not returnable once shipped.

Vent caps

The vent is how air leaves the tank while oil goes in — and it’s what makes the whistle the driver listens for. No whistle, no fill.

  • Vent cap — 1-1/4" slip-on

    Pushes on, no threads. Common on older outdoor tanks.

    $14.00

    How to tell: Pull the old cap straight up. If it lifts off without turning, it’s slip-on. Measure the pipe outside diameter: about 1 5/8".

    Sized part — not returnable once shipped.

  • Vent cap — 1-1/4" threaded

    Screws on. Measure the pipe, not the old cap.

    $15.00

    How to tell: Turns counter-clockwise to come off, and the pipe measures about 1 5/8" outside.

    Sized part — not returnable once shipped.

  • Vent cap — 1-1/2" threaded

    The most common size on indoor basement tanks.

    $16.00

    How to tell: Pipe measures about 1 7/8" across the outside of the threads.

    Sized part — not returnable once shipped.

  • Vent cap — 2" threaded

    Larger vent, usually on 550-gallon and commercial tanks.

    $19.00

    How to tell: Pipe measures about 2 3/8" outside. Same size as a fill pipe — check which is which.

    Sized part — not returnable once shipped.

Gauges

The float gauge that tells you how much is in there.

  • Tank gauge — float type, standard

    The red float in the clear tube. Fits the 2" gauge port on most tanks.

    $34.00

    How to tell: If your float is stuck at the top, sitting on the bottom, or the tube is cracked, this is the part.

Sticking your tank

A stuck float reads full for weeks and then you run out. A stick tells you the truth in ten seconds — and the paste tells you whether there’s water down there.

  • Tank measuring stick — 60"

    Marked in inches, long enough for any residential tank. Reads what your gauge won’t when the float sticks.

    $24.00

    How to tell: One size fits 275, 330 and 550 tanks. Vertical 275s are about 44" deep, so 60" covers everything with room to hold.

  • Water finding paste

    Smear it on the stick. It changes color the instant it touches water, and stays put in oil.

    $16.00

    How to tell: Water sits under the oil, so it’s the bottom inch or two of the stick that matters. A tube lasts years.

Oil filters

Changed once a year. Cheap part, and a clogged one starves the burner long before it stops it.

  • Oil filter — spin-on

    The canister type that threads onto a filter head. 10-micron element.

    $22.00

    How to tell: Spin-on filters look like a small car oil filter and unscrew as one piece. If yours has a lid held on by a bolt, you want the cartridge instead.

  • Oil filter — cartridge

    The replaceable element that sits inside a bowl-and-lid housing. Gasket included.

    $14.00

    How to tell: Cartridge housings have a metal bowl with a lid held down by a single bolt through the top. The element comes out; the bowl stays.

Fuel treatment

The same treatment our dealers add on delivery, in a bottle you can pour down the fill pipe yourself. Best used going into winter.

  • Fuel treatment — one tank

    Disperses water, slows sludge, and keeps the fuel from gelling in a cold snap. One bottle treats one tank up to 330 gallons.

    $24.00

    How to tell: Pour it down the fill pipe before your next delivery — the oil going in mixes it for you. One bottle a year is plenty.

Carbon monoxide

Any fuel-burning appliance can produce it, and you cannot smell it. One per floor, one near the bedrooms.

  • Carbon monoxide detector

    Plug-in with a digital readout and a 10-year sealed battery backup. UL 2034 listed.

    $39.00

    How to tell: One per floor, and one within 15 feet of any bedroom. Nothing to wire and nothing to set up.

Do it yourself

Short videos, no music, no ten-minute intro. Just the repair.

Videos are being filmed now — check back shortly.

Stuck? Get in touch and we’ll talk you through it.

Caps, gauges and sticks all sit in ports on top of the tank, above the oil — there is nothing in there to spill and no valve to shut. Most people have the gauge swapped in ten minutes. If yours is seized or you’d rather not, tell us and we’ll sort it, or have a technician do it while they’re there for your tune-up.

Get in touch →|Book a technician →

One we don’t show you: the filter.

Not because it’s hard, but because changing one lets air into the line and the burner won’t light again until the pump is bled. We’ll sell you the filter — plenty of people change their own — but we’re not going to walk you into a job that ends with no heat. It’s a ten-dollar part inside a tune-up we’re doing anyway.